Cheap Diy Solar Fence Design
Posted3 months agoActive2 months ago
joeyh.nameTechstoryHigh profile
calmmixed
Debate
60/100
Solar EnergyDiySustainability
Key topics
Solar Energy
Diy
Sustainability
The post showcases a DIY solar fence design, sparking discussion on its efficiency, cost-effectiveness, and practicality, with commenters weighing in on the benefits and drawbacks of such a setup.
Snapshot generated from the HN discussion
Discussion Activity
Very active discussionFirst comment
15m
Peak period
131
Day 9
Avg / period
31.2
Comment distribution156 data points
Loading chart...
Based on 156 loaded comments
Key moments
- 01Story posted
Oct 15, 2025 at 3:23 PM EDT
3 months ago
Step 01 - 02First comment
Oct 15, 2025 at 3:38 PM EDT
15m after posting
Step 02 - 03Peak activity
131 comments in Day 9
Hottest window of the conversation
Step 03 - 04Latest activity
Oct 29, 2025 at 6:45 AM EDT
2 months ago
Step 04
Generating AI Summary...
Analyzing up to 500 comments to identify key contributors and discussion patterns
ID: 45597198Type: storyLast synced: 11/20/2025, 7:50:26 PM
Want the full context?
Jump to the original sources
Read the primary article or dive into the live Hacker News thread when you're ready.
$1100 for mounting $1000 worth of panels does not seem terrible for something that anyone proficient with a hammer could accomplish.
I've wanted to install home solar for years now. It's difficult in my area. At first, the salespeople would ghost me after learning I didn't want or need financing. Then they lied about waived connection fees for use of a battery to sell power back to the utility during evening peak hours. Then the Federal incentives vanished. Now... the tariffs.
So our approach is to remain in the bottom 2% of electicity consumption for our area.
Stability in government is something we don't appreciate until it's gone.
If you're paying someone else to do it, the panels will likely be <10% of the cost.
Though all three are pretty safe as long as you buy the appropriate equipment, and take reasonable precautions when installing it.
You need thicker wires with 48V than with 120V or especially 240V, and the higher currents required at 48V can create more risk of fire from overheating conductors, for example in a wire that's too thin or a spring contact in an outlet that's worn out.
Perhaps you are implicitly comparing 48Vdc to 24Vdc, 12Vdc, or 6Vdc, rather than the 240Vac or 120Vac I was comparing it to. Those lower voltages do indeed need even thicker wires and pose even less risk of shock or arc faults than 48Vdc. I think 24V is the minimum to maintain an arc in air at atmospheric pressure, and it's really hard to get one started using a 24V supply; you need a high-frequency start circuit or a substantial amount of inductance in series.
48V is the maximum usually considered safe enough to not require compliance with any kind of electrical code; an expert electrician from North America once told me that it's in a category known to electricians as "bullshit wiring".
What? Common wisdom is that DC shock risk is worse than AC, as DC makes your muscles clench up and so it's harder to let go of whatever you grabbed. That "120Vac" is actually 170V peak though, which does increase shock risk for equivalent power transferred (maybe this is what you meant?).
It's complicated, though. If you're running a low-level current through your body for a long time, like in the neighborhood of a milliamp, DC is much worse because it migrates your electrolytes around. And if you're using metal electrodes it might be migrating the metal from the anode into your body. So TENS units are strictly AC, with no DC bias permitted.
https://bsky.app/profile/solarchase.bsky.social/post/3m3md7k...
For grid stability purposes it does not.
As for being "wrong," you're insisting that there's a narrow definition of a term when in general practice it is not used that way, and where the current usage causes zero confusion. You may be trying to change usage, but telling people "you're wrong" when they are not is not a convincing way. Showing that the existing usage of terms causes confusion might me more convincing, but it's hard.
And of course installation is incredibly cheap here. $50 total in labor for 10 panels on a quite high roof. I don't remember the costs of the mounting hardware, but it was reasonable as well.
https://www.infolink-group.com/energy-article/solar-topic-it...
But even putting aside the tariffs, I'm in the same boat as you - residential/consumer solar in the US is a disaster - everything goes through shady installation companies, the labor and permitting costs are enormous, it's nearly impossible to buy panels yourself at the market rate.
Unfortunately, I think Americans are much too heavily invested in current infrastructure to consider going all-in on those…
Not to say it’s impossible to run a DC circuit at 12V or less, but wire is expensive, and lower voltage means thicker wire.
I thought it was up to 48 volts, but it looks like NFPA 70 Article 725 Class 1 circuits are only up to 30 volts, and there's a power limitation I didn't know about: only 1000 VA. So you can only run a pretty small storage heater from a Class 1 circuit, and even Class 1 circuits have some safety requirements: https://www.ecmweb.com/cee-news-magazine-archive/article/208...
Class 2 and Class 3 also require the use of a listed power supply.
A 10kWp installation with a battery will easily cost you £15,000-£20,000, with an annual energy bill of ~£2000 it's easy to hit 7-10 years ROI.
To put some numbers to my specific case, my 7kWp system with 12kWh battery was ~£13,000 in summer 2025, and about 55-60% of the cost came from scaffolding and labour.
Panels and enphase on Craigslist are so cheap you don’t have to worry about it. Max out what you’re allowed with your main electrical panel size and you’ll never regret it. Don’t even consider doing less than the maximum. You will never meet anybody who believes they added enough solar after a year of ownership
Now, you would have built not a cutting-edge system, but a relatively inexpensive one, with a minimum of red tape and financing shenanigans.
(Edited: typos.)
I want solar but I don’t want the liability of a roof install with leaks and servicing.
I’ve landed either on a solar pergola or a solar fence . Both concepts seem like a no brainer.
I like the solar fence since it allows you to cleverly avoid setback requirements that normal structures have.
I’m glad people like Joey are doing projects like this.
Also expect a dove colony to enjoy the new comfort. All your neighbors will thank you for their homes turning into guano rocks, a sight once reserved to adventurous travelers.
Their nests, which will quickly accumulate under your roof's panels, offer not one but two existential threats for your home: They can catch fire when too dry, but also act as a water barrier, pushing the water into your roof.
We were not quoted for the mesh in our install and the day the panels were fitted we had a bird build a nest on another part of the roof, some quick research suggested that people in the area _highly_ recommend getting it, so we had it added at an absolutely ridiculous markup that added a whole year to our ROI but it needed to be done.
Obviously there is a solution, but I'd say the vast majority of either fanatics or normies tinkering with the idea of installing a solar roof know anything about those severe problems.
I've installed one recently. I've asked every prospective contractor for the job beforehand about whether I should get some mesh around it. All said they never heard of such a problem. And if virtually all the people that installed all these roofs in your area tell the same story, what do you do?
Half a year later the whole block turned into Guano dump and once the plague is there, mesh around the panels won't do – you need to install spikes as well, because as long as not every solar roof in your vicinity is "meshed" these colonies are still going to use your roof for their "business" as well.
EDIT: Since you've mentioned ROI, the premium for installing the panels with the mesh directly would have been around 500€, having to do it separately (plus the additional spikes) cost 2500€
I think you missed the word "don't" in there, in which case, totally agree.
Despite the installer I used being highly recommended and supposedly extremely reputable (and owned by a major energy supplier), they made no effort to educate me on the various options, I came into this knowing little to nothing about having a solar installation in my home and what scenarios, and solutions were available.
Once I'd agreed to the install, I spent days researching and learned there was a _huge_ host of choices, decisions, configurations etc they just didn't bother to tell me about.
I had to go back and do the upsell for them because I had learned I needed these things (such as the bird mesh).
Best I can tell, is that green incentives in the UK are pushing installers to churn out cookie cutter installs at an alarming rate regardless of its suitability; at no point did they discuss whether I wanted blackout protection (gateway/off grid), didn't ask or even mention the existence of bird mesh, no questions of monitoring, massively under specified the battery capacity for the size of my home, and didn't account for the fact my wife and I work from home every day.
On the mesh point, that's how they got me; they know the cost of installing it later is immense, so they over-charged to add it to my purchase when the scaffolding was already up and installers already on site, and I had no choice or it would have cost me 4-5x more to do it later.
Where the dc arc-fault protection referred to in Rule 64-216 is not located at the module, photovoltaic source circuit insulated conductors and cables installed on or above a building and installed in accordance with Subrules 1), 2), and 3) shall be provided with mechanical protection in the form of an enclosed raceway or other acceptable material to protect against damage from rodents.
Near me there are new builds with panels integrated flush into the roof. This seems like a much better way to do it, and will become the norm long term.
Talk to your AHJ before spending any money.
This fact always surprises me. What goes into a mount that makes it so expensive? Its essentially just a piece of metal, right?
The article goes into the parts for their custom fence project, but for the more typical case, why can't the metal mounts just be mass produced cheaply?
What is it about solar panels that makes everyone want to use these really expensive mounting solutions? Is it just because they're trying to engineer a full 30 year lifespan right from the start?
You will still need the conduit for the wire of course, at least up to the inverter. That will add up pretty quickly if your mounts are spread out.
Of course it's possible to make it work, but if you need a concrete foundation in the ground to keep the posts immobile you're destroying the economics of it.
Then again, why don't those 'really expensive mounting solutions' suffer from the same issue?
It is the cost of scaffolding to get up to the roof, labour to install the panels, electrical certification, etc.
I have several solar arrays at home - roof mounted, ground mounted.
The first array I ended up shelling out something like €2k for a mounting kit for a dozen panels.
The second array I went to a local builders merchant and bought a pile of aluminium profiles, and got a sack of cheap panel mounting bolts and clamps from China. 30 panels, about €200 in mounting hardware, and I went for the absolute bare minimum truss that would support them and be rigid through extreme weather. Commercially, it was looking like €3,500 just for the ground mounting kit. My labour cost was my sorry ass hauling gear up a cliff like a pack-goat and drilling bedrock to anchor them. Actually, the rock anchors were one of the expensive parts of that array - I think next time I’m just doing deeper holes, threaded bar and grout.
So yeah. The noun is bloody expensive, never mind the verb.
I’m in a very windy location but they are heavy enough to not budge.
It’s obviously not appropriate for all cases. But the original article, the guy could have gotten by with some zip ties. I’m of opinion that a lot of mounting is over engineered.
A lot of construction work in general is priced around labor being atleast 50% of the total cost.
I've seen OSHA violations of such severity, of such imminent danger, you couldn't get a tailor pin up my sphincter with a jackhammer.
They exist for a reason, and you're going to have to do your project on the cheap by yourself, sorry.
The other engineer and I just looked at each other and quietly minded our own business :-)
The safety rules do make things much safer but also noticeably increase cost. It’s a tradeoff we as a society have decided is worth it. Maybe at some point we will change that decision and then costs will quickly come down, capitalism is very good at meeting the minimum requirements in order to make sales.
Or is more likely a general antipathy to solving beaurocratic problems if it will endanger fossil fuel profits?
Subtly different safety rules by region (or any other type of rule variation) is just a symptom of the latter issue.
Typical roof mounted installs in the USA are in the $3-4/Watt range, inclusive of parts, labor, and permitting for professional installation. Tax credits and other incentives can reduce this.
Code compliant ground mount installs via DIY are in the $2.75-$4/Watt range, inclusive of all parts and permitting and assuming labor is free but that a licensed electrician is needed for final grid tie. Tax incentives can reduce this. Not needing permits or a licensed electrician also can reduce it. Alternatives such as using wood racking instead of metal is also cheaper but this may violate electric code.
>As of March 2025, the cost of residential solar energy in Australia averaged just AUD $0.90 (USD $0.59) per watt—less than a quarter of the U.S. average.
It's generally attributed to consistent sensible regulation which has created a competitive market and reduced any time wasting paperwork.
Case in point: https://i.tribune.com.pk/media/images/Grenfell-tower17254759...
This was literal "bonfire of the regulations": https://www.thelondoneconomic.com/news/this-is-the-bonfire-o...
Regulations and codes are written in blood and corpses. Don't be so quick to discount them.
I'm not in favor of throwing away all regulations and all licensing, mind you. But some pragmatic rebalancing needs to happen. If I go to India I do not automatically die inside a house with a $9500 solar installation. That'd be much more likely to happen on an American road with its 40000/yr fatalities that everyone casually accepts as a pragmatic trade-off worth having ;)
India’s traffic fatality rate is 12.6 per 100k, which is about the same as the US’ at 14.2. India has a very low car ownership rate, and US a very high one, so I dunno that I’d be so quick to judge in your shoes.
[0] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_countries_by_traffic-r...
https://www.dataforindia.com/road-accident-deaths/
Perhaps if India was more like the USA, safe road travel would improve - and consequently - their 172k traffic fatalities would fall to a more acceptable level (by the way there are doubts this figure is correct - people speculate it's much higher)?
And before you complain about the population difference, I checked the per capita rates of traffic fatalities. India outpaces the USA by quite a bit.
By the way, this is all an apples and oranges comparison. Building standards has nothing to do with road fatalities.
In parts they do, but that doesn't mean that licensing doesn't have a point. They should not be able to limit the licenses but testing and training should absolutely happen. Especially for critical things like electricity.
> If I go to India I do not automatically die inside a house with a $9500 solar installation.
You don't but your chances are higher than a country with enforced minimum standards.
https://www.newslaundry.com/2023/08/01/electrocution-kills-1...
[1] https://www.coloradohistoricnewspapers.org/?a=d&d=CRN1913010...
OK, so in your scenario, who will take the risk?
There is a very significant risk of one or more workers falling off the roof and getting killed or injured so badly they can never work again. Do you plan to take that risk and if it happens pay death benefits to the fallen worker's family or cover the medical and disability expenses? Or, to you expect to just say "tough luck" to the worker? Or, will you pay an insurer to cover it?
There is a very significant risk the roof will pierced in a way that it no longer works to exclude water, magnified by using materials & tools not up to standards. Will you take on the risk when the roof fails and leaks, and remove the installation, repair the roof, they re-do the installation? Do you expect the overseas contractors to come back and fix it (and how will you enforce that)? Or, will you require them to follow some established standard to reduce the risk, and/or try to get insurance/warranty to cover the risk?
It is easy and trivial to complain about "excess" regulations, ignoring the fact that many of them were bought with blood and funerals. And yes, some are a pain in the arse, and seem unnecessary for your particular situation. But unless you have actually considered the WHOLE problem, and can post a better solution, it just comes of as immature whinging. So, how do you expect to handle the risks?
I talked to a local engineer for drafting plans. I didn’t know what I was doing so had to go through 4-5 revisions, which the engineer got frustrated by I think.
US doesn't need immigrants. There is a lot cheaper labor available[1], $7.23 to $14.45 per month. Many companies use this nearly free labor infrastructure[2]. There is no reason solar installers can't train and use them.
[1]https://www.prisonpolicy.org/blog/2017/04/10/wages/
[2]https://www.business-humanrights.org/en/latest-news/usa-more...
Some very rough numbers from memory:
- 20 panel + 10 microinverter bundle: $5600
- cost to ship the bundle: $700
- conductor: $450
- steel/pvc conduit for conductor sheath: $350
- strut for racking: $500
- 3” steel conduit for ground mount: $5000
- concrete and tube forms for vertical post footers: $400
- augur/trencher rental: $500
- brackets/fasteners: $600
- tools: $500
- electrician work to upgrade service panel: $2500
- electrician work for hookup and disconnect install: still TBD but I’m guessing more thousands
- time spent x my current hourly salary as a programmer: I don’t want to think about it haha
Probably a bunch of stupid little stuff I’m forgetting. Just gas to go on supply runs is probably over $100, although I always tried to batch runs with other normal errands.
The most expensive parts of projects can be surprising, at least to me. I also recently invested in my own fuel transfer pump to transport home heating fuel instead of paying for delivery. 55 gallon drums: $20 each. Pump: $200. But the most expensive part was actually the 15 meters of arctic grade fuel hose at over $400.
300V 6/3 SO cord is about 6 bucks a foot, that adds up quick! Just be glad you didn’t have to buy any pin and sleeve connectors ;)
You can use wood, but then you have buy good amount of treated lumber and put it together. Galvanized steel also lasts longer than wood.
My impression is that galvanized steel fences are cheaper than wood ones. Even using steel posts and wood panels. People make wooden fences cause prefer the look.
Depending on your local area, if you're the homeowner, you can often do most of the electrical yourself (pull permits if needed). Use ChatGPT to look up code requirements and instructions, then look up YouTube videos where professionals show you how to do it all. I think it's much less complicated than figuring out all the solar-specific stuff (tilt angles, voltages, wiring, disconnects, etc).
Ground mounts are far more expensive, not only because of how strong they need to be to support the panels under strong winds and snow without deflection, but the anchoring can be complicated depending on the site.
Some people can just hammer spikes into the ground, fill with epoxy, and their array is anchored. For my yard, I have to dig 4-feet down below frost line, through incredibly rocky clay soil, and bury (and concrete) 4x4 posts. On top of those posts goes the (expensive) metal rails to mount the panels. For just 10 solar panels it's gonna cost me ~$1000 in materials and many hours of digging.
The metal U-channel rails I'm looking at using will cost around $40/pp (10-ft), and I need at least 10 of them. In theory a cheaper option could be wooden boards like 2x8/2x10, but they're significantly heavier, bulkier, and would still be difficult to mount to.
This construction lets me build the array however I want, including adjusting angle (I'll have 4 pre-set angles for each season). This design is still cheaper than the cheapest pre-fab ground mounts, which are metal legs which go for ~$110/pp. You need ~2 legs per panel, though in some cases you can share one leg for two panels. For 10 panels you still need at least 11 legs, so at least $1100, before cost to anchor them. And that's a fixed angle. The adjustable angle ones are more like $185/pp.
Saved a whole lot of backbreaking digging, do recommend.
Human Labor, the most neglected factor when discussing rising infrastructure costs.
For ground mounting, site preparation is required. Probably one wouldn't want to see their panel system get some slope year after year.
I think this graph sheds some light on your question:
https://www.nrel.gov/solar/market-research-analysis/solar-in...
What happened in the last decade was that solar panels ("Module" in this graph) got very very cheap. They used to cost $3 per watt in 2010, but now only cost $0.3 per watt.
This extreme price drop happened thanks to technical innovations (such as commoditization of PERC cells), and the large-scale production in PRC.
Metal components ("Hardware - BOS" in this graph) did get cheaper in the same time frame ($0.6 per watt to $0.5 per watt), but their cost cannot be reduced as much exactly because they are just a piece of metal i.e. there is no low-hanging fruit in Metallurgy.
And so on :)
Similarly, if you want to do a permitted installation, you generally need to use UL-certified inverters and batteries -- fewer shocks and fires. That's a different pricing tier from the "trust me bro" equipment you can find online.
Meanwhile, a panel's main failure mode is not producing enough power. They're relatively easy to replace when they fail to do that. Price incentives are better aligned for that system component.
The labor alone to mount the PV panel costs more than the PV panel. A union electrician costs a contractor $100/hr in a medium sized metro area with fringes and wages.
The mount and installing the mount cost more than the PV panel as well.
I’m unsure why everyone is posting about rooftop solar and rooftop mounts, the vast majority of PV panels are installed in solar fields, not on roofs.
I actually run and sell commercial electrical work, for what it’s worth.
If you would live on the equator optimal placing is laying panels on the ground. The closer you are to the pole you should lift panel up more on the north side.
Standing panels would make sense from theoretical point of view on the pole, but then you have freezing temperatures and snow covering the panels which makes them useless.
Which again brings me to the question: why? Why would anybody do that?
There are a lot more considerations to get into e.g. in areas with lots of snow verticals are significantly less affected and benefit more from reflection, in summer vertical E/W bifacials have a “double hump” which provides more generation in the morning and evening, verticals take less floor space so you might be able to get extra panels or get panels at all, N/S bifacials have better winter production unless your slanted panels are “detuned” from perfect summer angle (or even better have a tilt mount you can update every few months, but that is not cheap).
This is still conventional wisdom, yes. It assumes that you need to maximise utilisation of solar panels, and act as if they are rare and expensive. But they are now neither rare nor expensive any more.
Also, as the other comment pointed out, if you "maximize area that is facing the sun", you get most generation at mid-day. Adding in some generation that is most active in early and late day balances that out, as most power is used then.
And you can just throw more panels at the problem. It's not a constraint any more.
And usually you have enough power during midday but not in the mornings and evenings, where these would produce the most power, sort of flattening the power curve.
Also panels are really cheap, like 70€ per piece
When vertical not much of an issue and the reflection from the snow appears to work well with bifacial.
OP has 370W bi-facial panels that cost $100, I recently had solar installed the in UK with 465W single-face panels which would have cost ~£100 each to buy in small quantities, my installer clearly paid less (and charged 3x).
It has also been my experience that a few degrees off with decent enough sun (and we don't get amazing sun here in the UK) makes practically no difference to the generation; my arrays are facing E-SE and S-SW and I can slightly exceed the rated specs in the peak of summer when the sun is mid-way between both arrays and not pointing "directly" at either.
Because why not have a fence that at least generates some power instead of a fence that does nothing! Costs are not that much more, 2k is easily spent on a bigger fence and this way, you don't have to get up and hustle, our fence does it for you!
Part of the issue is what you're optimizing for. If you have yearly net-metering, and you just want to max out the number of kWh you generate over the year, vertical probably isn't that great. If you are off-grid or are paid hourly based on power prices or some other scheme, you generally want to maximize your worst-case power production rather than maximize yearly production. Generally batteries are only sized for a few days worth of storage or so. You can't store power from the summer and use it in the winter. Vertical panels at high latitudes also produce more power earlier and later in the day when the sun is really low. Bifacial vertical panels also generally get more bifacial gain, especially on cloudy days.
It's really a question of maximizing worst-case performance vs. average-case performance.
Takes up a smaller footprint of land, and PV panels themselves are now so cheap and last so long that it borderline makes sense as a fencing material even if you don't connect them to an inverter and power and anything with them.
One thing his construction will run into though is his wooden pillars rotting quickly. Always keep a healthy distance between wood or it will be soaked quickly.
Watched Fisherman's Life on YT (in California) recently build out some panels had to pay for inspection granted different design than a fence
1. The article doesn't say how much power he actually generates from the panels.
2. It would be nice if more were said about the need for bracing. How high can the fence be without requiring bracing?
3. If you want to enclose a space, the which direction do the panels face? Outwards? As close to south as possible? You may end up with a bunch of electrical stuff facing away from your house. I think it's just a matter of time before your local overbearing town/hoa decides this is too ugly.
Offgrid Electric Car (29 points, 6 months ago, 9 comments) https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=43764598
Aiming at December https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=42412256
Ditching the rails and bolting to the panel mounting holes with galvanized angle is a lot cheaper.
He does not mention getting any, but his panels are high enough above the ground, and above a slope, that wind should clear snow away from under the panels and prevent it piling up. I think.
Does anyone have experience with designing a similar setup but for a locale with snow accumulating on the ground ?
It'd probably be less labor and material intensive to just build a single structure holding the entire array using much longer rails instead of setting posts and rails every 6-7 feet. To keep costs lower you could also go with a string inverter instead of the ~$1500 you'd need for microinverters.
Pricing conveniently doesn't include the panels, so you just have a set of posts and some horizontal racking.
3 more comments available on Hacker News